Imagine a glorious May evening, around 6.30pm. You’ve arrived in a pretty coastal town, dumped your bags in a picturesque rooftop flat, and polished off an early meal with your yawning seven-year-old son. What happens next? Stroll down to the harbour for some ice cream? Watch a film and tuck in early? These are good, sensible ideas. But no. You are in Bergen, the city of seven mountains, down the road from the land of the midnight sun, and it’s already working its spell. Your head spins with the blazing sky, sleep feels a long way away, and Mount Fløyen, a 320-metre summit rising out of the harbour, beckons.
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