Sometimes, that’s good. I think about recipes that are as mindless as sleepwalking, like the fried eggs with breadcrumbs from Judy Rodgers’s seminal book, The Zuni Café Cookbook. I always have eggs around; I almost always have breadcrumbs on-hand. I can cook that dish at the screech of dawn with one eye open—and I have, many times.
Then there are the routines that hobble us. I like cauliflower a lot. Somehow that affection consistently leads me to a blazing oven, a roasting pan, and loads of olive oil. The cauliflower shrivels around the edges, sweetening as it chars. The result is as good at room temperature or cold as it is hot. Easy.
Read More