[Photographs: Liz Clayman, unless otherwise noted]
One of my favorite summer kimchis, called yeolmu kimchi, is made with young, crunchy radish greens—usually with their tiny radish roots still attached. This is a quick kimchi that’s ready to eat in just a few days, with the help of a starchy porridge to speed up the fermentation.
This kimchi brings back memories from my childhood, when I lived with my grandmother in Gangwon Province, north of Seoul. Our house had a courtyard, and in the summertime, we liked to open the doors and put a small table down with a view of the outdoors and our garden full of eggplant, chilies, cucumbers, and perilla leaves. Korean summers are humid and sticky, but we’d play outside, sweaty and happy. When my grandmother and mother called us home for lunch, they’d often serve up bowls of cold noodles topped with crunchy, cooling yeolmu kimchi.
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