I was given the nickname “goloso” (meaning “greedy one”) at a young age. My Italian father was (and still is) a great cook, and I was an adventurous, enthusiastic eater and keen whisk-licker. Every trip to his native Florence would start with a visit to the bakery down the street, where carpets of flatbreads and tarts with savoury and sweet toppings are as vivid in my greedy head today as they were then. Today’s crostata pays homage to those, while the pork meatballs and clams – unheard of in our corner of the Middle East – are some of the big, exotic flavours that enchanted and seduced me.
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