Described by Ligurian-born chef Lucio Galletto in his book The Art of Pasta as “one of the few dishes that unify Italy”, pasta and beans (pasta e fasoi, he says in the north, pasta fazool if you’re Dean Martin) is “peasant food of the most warming and comforting kind”, according to Russell Norman. It’s also one of those recipes with as many versions as there are cooks, differing not only, Gennaro Contaldo observes, from region to region, “but also among families”.
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