Thick chunks of bread, textured and chewy, have been cut from a vast loaf and are on their way to our table. There’s a little dish of butter on the side, as pale and soft as Mr Whippy, that will soon be speckled with the loaf’s blackened crust. A fine loaf is a good start to any dinner, but I have to admit to missing the wicker basket of rolls that used to accompany a meal in a restaurant. The plump little bubbles of dough that appeared, peeping at us from under their snow-white linen napkin. I loved digging in with my thumbs and tearing my chosen roll apart, buttering each ripped morsel in turn. And although it was rarely the best of bread, it was nevertheless all mine. A whole, fat little cherub of dough all to myself.
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