Cherry on top: a cherry and hazelnut meringue stack and a cherry pistachio tart recipe

It's only the middle of cherry season and already my fingertips are dyed a blushing pink from the cherry rituals: pluck them from their stalks, squeeze them, split them and tug out their crimson-stained pits. When they're good, they're irresistible – shiny, perfectly tender and intensely sweet – and should be enjoyed as nature intended, with no fanciness or frippery. Not all cherries are made equal, however, and if you buy a cheap supermarket punnet you might find the fruit rather less inspiring.

Fortunately, it's easy to brighten up lacklustre specimens with a little sugar and heat – and how better to do that than with a spot of summer baking?

Roasted cherry and hazelnut meringue stack

There are a few components to this dessert, but you'll find the result is well worth the effort: chewy hazelnut meringue, dark chocolate and coffee ganache and soft, roasted cherries. It's a rich, sultry dessert, and one bound to impress.

Whisking meringue can be hard work: it becomes thicker the longer it's whisked, meaning that as you get more tired, the job will grow even more taxing. If you've got an electric hand whisk – perfect. Otherwise, prepare for a workout. You needn't be a martyr to your meringue, though. Just have a helper on hand to take over the whisking when you get weary, and put on the radio or TV to make the job go quicker.

Serves 6-8
350g fresh cherries, pitted
50g caster sugar
1 tbsp whisky (optional)

For the meringue
100g blanched hazelnuts
3 large egg whites
150g caster sugar

For the ganache
100g dark chocolate
100ml double cream
1 tbsp golden syrup
1 tbsp very strong black coffee

1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Lightly oil two baking trays or oven dishes.

2 Toss together the cherries, sugar and whisky, if using, then spread out on one of the baking trays. Pour the blanched hazelnuts on to the other tray. Place both trays into the preheated oven. Roast the hazelnuts for 10-12 minutes, until a rich golden colour, and the cherries for 20 minutes, until tender. Set aside to cool. Finely chop the hazelnuts and set aside in a small bowl. Lower the oven temperature to 160C/325F/gas mark 3 and line a couple of baking trays with parchment.

3 First make the meringue. In a large, very clean and dry bowl (preferably metal, which doesn't retain grease and dirt the way that plastic bowls tend to), whisk the egg whites until completely foamy throughout. Mix in the sugar a quarter at a time, whisking thoroughly each time to dissolve the sugar. Once all the sugar has been added, whisk for a further 10 minutes or so, until firm and glossy – it should hold a stiff peak (without drooling or curling) when the whisk is lifted slowly from the mixture.

4 Fold three-quarters of the chopped hazelnuts gently into the meringue, taking care not to deflate it. Spread half of the meringue in a 22cm-diameter disc on one of the prepared baking trays, then repeat with the remaining meringue on the other tray. Bake for 45-55 minutes, until firm to the touch.

5 Meanwhile, prepare the ganache. Chop the chocolate finely and set it aside in a mixing bowl. Heat the cream on the hob or in the microwave until it's just shy of the boil, then slowly pour over the chocolate. Let the mixture sit for a moment, then stir to combine. Fold in the golden syrup and the coffee, and set aside to cool.

6 Once cooked, remove the meringues from the oven and leave to cool on wire racks.

7 To assemble,spread one meringue with the ganache, and arrange the roasted cherries over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining hazelnuts and sandwich with the other meringue. Serve straight away with vanilla ice-cream.

Cherry pistachio tart

This is my take on a Bakewell tart, swapping the usual almonds for pistachio, the greener, savoury flavour profile of which removes the cloying marzipan-y sweetness of traditional versions.You have to grind the pistachios yourself, though, so a coffee grinder or food processor is handy for this recipe.

Serves 6-8
90g unsalted butter, firm, cubed
175g plain flour
A pinch of salt
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 large egg yolk
1 tbsp milk

For the filling
100g unsalted butter, softened
100g caster sugar
1½ tsp vanilla extract
1 large egg
100g pistachios, finely ground
65g plain flour
½ tsp baking powder
A pinch of salt
3-4 tbsp cherry jam

200-250g cherries, pitted

1 Lightly rub the butter into the flour using your fingertips, until no visible pieces remain. Stir in the salt and sugar. Beat the egg yolk with the milk, and add to the dry ingredients. Cut the mixture into small clumps with a knife, then press into a flat disc of dough. Wrap tightly in cling film and refrigerate for 15-20 minutes.

2 Roll the chilled pastry out between two pieces of baking parchment dusted with flour until large enough to line the base and sides of a 20-23cm-diameter cake or flan tin. Line the tin, pressing the pastry neatly into the corners without stretching it. Chill the lined tin for 30 minutes, or freeze for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

3 Scrunch up a sheet of parchment then roughly smooth it out again. Cover the pastry with it, weighing it down with baking weights. Bake for 15 minutes. Lift the parchment and weights out as a bundle, and return the uncovered pastry to the oven for a further a further 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Lower the heat to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

4 For the filling, cream the butter and sugar until smooth, then stir in the vanilla and egg. Stir in the pistachios, flour, baking powder and salt.

5 Spread the cherry jam over the pastry base case then dollop the the pistachio mix on top and gently smooth over. Stud with the fresh cherries and bake for 35‑45 minutes, or until the filling is well-risen and set, and a knife poked into the centre comes out clean.