The recipe
Warm a griddle or barbecue. Pull the leaves from four corncobs, and when the griddle is hot, cook the corn on the grill, turning regularly, so it is deep gold and brown here and there.
In a blender or food processor, place a large handful of flat-leaved parsley, a large handful of basil leaves and stems, one tablespoon of smooth Dijon mustard and a pinch of sea salt. Pour in eight tablespoons of olive oil (something bright and fruity) and the juice of half a lemon, then blitz to a brilliant green slush.
In a small frying pan, cook 150g of smoked pancetta, cut into cubes, until the fat is golden. Halve, seed and very finely slice a medium-hot red chilli, then add to the pancetta and cook briefly, then remove from the heat.
When the corn is tender, place on plates, pour over some of the green sauce and scatter over the pancetta and chillies. Serves 2.
The trick
Sweetcorn loses its sweetness by the hour. The quicker you can get it into the pot, or the grill, the better. Success depends more on shopping than cooking. If you find the corn still in its husk, make sure it is green and supple and that the corn underneath feels plump and full.
The twist
A tomato chilli sauce with pancetta is good with corn, too. Cook cubed pancetta until golden, then add chopped onions and a little olive oil and continue cooking until soft. Add a sliced chilli or two, depending on their heat, and a crushed clove of garlic. Add chopped fresh tomatoes, a little sweet, smoked paprika, and let the mixture simmer down to a thick pulp over half an hour or so. Serve with the boiled or griddled corn.
Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater