Caviar in coach class? Heathrow introduces the on-board picnic

It should be an enjoyable aspect of flying but for the majority of us rammed into cattle class, on-board airline meals – masquerading as food – have become a bit of a joke. The choice may be limited to “beef” or “chicken” although it’s impossible to tell the difference as you tuck into (or tip down your front) the lukewarm, congealed mess lurking in the tin foil container in front of you.

On short-hop budget carriers, of course, you end up paying through the nose for a stale baguette or soggy panini. No wonder airlines are chucking away the equivalent of hangars full of food waste while their disillusioned passengers are bringing sandwiches on board.

But there’s now an alternative. This week Heathrow became the first airport in the world to offer passengers an “on-board picnic” – a bespoke hamper (well, a bag rather than a woven wicker number) they can take with them on their flight. The service is now available at all of Heathrow’s 118 restaurants across all five terminals.

The 49 brands involved range from cafe chains such as Pret a Manger and EAT, to restaurants including Heston Blumenthal’s the Perfectionist Café and Gordon Ramsay’s Plane Food, along with Caviar House and the Gorgeous Kitchen.

The food can in some cases be pre-ordered and will be served in cool boxes or thermal packaging to keep the food warm or cold, to “ensure the food retains maximum taste and freshness at 35,000 feet”.

The options vary in price and size depending on the retailer, but typically cost between £5 for a sandwich and a soft drink and £50 for the most extravagant picnic spread. Mid-range is Gordon Ramsay’s Plane Food with a three course meal for £12.95. If you fancy some really posh nosh (for £50) the extravaganza from Caviar House features fresh salmon and oodles of caviar – no longer the exclusive preserve of first class passengers. Caviar House has the dubious honour of offering the most expensive bag – the King Seafood Platter at an eye-popping £145.

And what do you do with the empty bag afterwards? Passengers who return them to Caviar House will be offered a 15% discount on their next on-board picnic purchase.

New research from Heathrow suggests that the traditional airline meal, routinely included in the ticket price, may well be heading for the great dustbin in the sky. More than two-thirds of passengers (70.5 %) want flexibility about when they eat during their flight. For men, food comes first once airborne, with 34% wanting their food to arrive before the plane has even reached its cruising altitude, perhaps so they can then get on with the serious business of snoozing or watching the in-flight entertainment.

What do you think of this idea from Heathrow? Are you organised enough to take your own food on-board? Do you fancy the idea of chilled fresh salmon and caviar rather than a sandwich? Or on a longer flight do you secretly enjoy the indulgence of your nondescript airline meal with a mini bottle of wine ?