There is only one festival foodstuff more divisive than sprouts: the flaming cannonball of dried fruits that arrives at the table after Christmas lunch. One family member will hate it, one will have spent a whole year looking forward to its sweet, heavy charms, everyone will be worrying about the combination of drunk people and flames. Truro fire station’s Green Watch are no different. Admittedly they are a bit more handy round a blazing globe of raisins and booze – if you don’t have hoses and helmets to hand, they say, keep a damp teatowel handy. In between emergencies (our first tasting gets delayed by a call-out to nearby Falmouth), station manager Matt Riches, watch manager Jason White, and firefighters Jon Brooker, Josh Jones and Gareth Davey take their places round the Truro fire station dinner table, and pronounce judgment on this year’s ready-made offerings. Which puddings sparked their interest? And which failed to light their fires?
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Cognac-laced Christmas Pudding, 900g, £12
This traditional pudding scored good marks across the board for a citrusy, balanced taste that “isn’t too heavy on the booze”. Lighter than many of the puddings we tried, with “the occasional nutty crunch”. Green Watch praised its “zesty undertones” and the abundance of peel. A solid pudding.
Verdict: 3/5
Aldi’s Berries Vintage Manx Pudding, 908g, £12.99 JOINT WINNER
“For a non-decorated pud, this looks the best,” was the considered response to this traditional pudding judged “well-balanced” with “a perfect mix of fruit”. This was a “high-quality” pudding, everyone agreed; warming, understated and moist. It was all-the-better for being unadorned: “The only thing that you’d need on top of this is Cornish clotted cream.”
Verdict: 4/5
Betty’s Large Christmas Pudding with Chocolate and Orange, 760g, £20.95
Betty’s, makers of brilliant traditional Christmas puddings, have misfired horribly with this chocolate and orange rendition. Green Watch thought the result was “scandalous”. At best, this was “very confused”; at worst, a terrible punishment for firefighters trying to help the Guardian out. “This little pudding needs to go back to market” was the verdict. Although, as small consolation, it does “look nice on the plate”.
Verdict: 1/5
Morrison’s Signature Jewelled Fruit Christmas Pudding, 454g, £3.99
This heavily fruited pudding divided our tasters: for some it was “a very aesthetically pleasing choice”, while for others it was “decorated like a Christmas tree out of The Only Way is Essex”. There was less difference of opinion when it came to the pudding’s “overpowering fruit sweetness”. Don’t be won over by its good looks: “It’s style over substance.”
Verdict: 2/5
Marks & Spencer’s Collection Cranberry and Clementine Christmas Pudding, 907g, £14
M&S’s pudding is gilded: a shiny golden dome garnished with clementine slices. Reaction was largely bemused – “it looks a bit weird” – and the flavour didn’t go down much better. While the “surprise goo” in the centre found one fan, for others “one mouthful would send me straight to the dentist”. The pudding was: “Far too sweet, too sickly, and too orangey”.
Verdict: 2/5
Heston from Waitrose Hidden Orange Christmas Pudding, 1.2kg, £15
A generally positive reaction to Heston’s pudding, which was “very perfumed and well-balanced with nuts and fruit”. The crumb was praised as having “a delicate moistness and melt-in-the-mouth texture”. But nobody thought the centre – described as a “rotting orange” or “surprise tennis ball” – was a good idea. Not only is it “difficult to cut”, but the flavour was, at best, described as “interesting”.
Verdict: 3/5
Tesco Finest Christmas Pudding with Courvoisier, 907g, £10 JOINT WINNER
A great pudding for those who prefer the classic domed Christmas desert: “Simple, traditional and what I want a pudding to be. A good texture and not too much alcohol”, with its “no frills” appearance matched by a “tasty” flavour. And while it perhaps “lacked individuality” when compared with other puddings, this was “a good allrounder that’s as traditional as a visit from Santa.”
Verdict: 4/5
Lidl Luxury Cherry and Pecan Topped Christmas Pudding, 907g, £9.99
A real looker, mounded with cherries and nuts, that went down a treat: “Warming, inviting and indulging, like a Christmas cuddle from Mrs Claus.” Some wondered if it was trying a bit too hard, questioning if “the original pudding has got lost somewhere in this indulgent extravaganza”, and whether the sugar balance was wrong in a pudding that is “trying to be grown-up”.
Verdict: 3/5
Fortnum & Mason King George Christmas Plum Pudding, 907g, £35
Fortnum’s offering was a “very strong pudding” with fruit and nuts “in well-balanced proportions” and a “traditional flavour”. Green Watch liked that it didn’t have too many nuts, but while the brandy overtones left some “wanting more”, for others it was a pudding that was “unmemorable”.
Verdict: 3/5
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