The foodie traveller … on the spread of raw cuisine

Raw food cuisine is losing its “how many ways can you peel a banana?” aura and, rightfully, moving into the spotlight as a dynamic, varied and flavoursome way of eating. A good raw chef brings their own twist to old favourites: falafel, pizza, nachos, curry and pad Thai are all popular raw meals.

At one time you had to cross the Atlantic to experience these kinds ofgourmet delights, but the culture is now flourishing in Europe as well, and you can find great raw options in cities including Copenhagen (42 Raw and Botaniq); Gothenburg (Rawfoodbaren); Paris (42 Degrés); Amsterdam (where there’s an annual Raw Food Festival, this year on 14 June); and London, which now boasts several dining spots – I like Nama best, but there’s also Vantra Vitao, and LOVR among others.

View image in fullscreen

My favourite spot though, is Iceland. You might imagine Reykjavik to be behind the trend, being so isolated, but you’d be wrong. Every supermarket, even the smallest, is well-stocked with products bearing bright orange labels and the face of Solla Eiriks. Solla – she’s known by her first name – is an Icelandic celebrity chef who eats a high-raw diet, and has been introducing raw food concepts to Icelanders’ eating habits for over a decade. Whether you’re after super foods like chlorella tablets and maca powder, or staples like raw tahini and kelp noodles, there’s a good chance you’ll find them in the first supermarket you walk in to.

Solla also has a chain of restaurants, Glo, which are always buzzing, with queues out of the door at lunchtimes. There were four at the last count – you’re most likely to arrive at the Laugavegur branch in the hip central 101 district. Glo serves (cooked) chicken, and vegetarian dishes such as lasagne, as well as raw options including pizza and falafel, but whatever you have comes with a lot of salad. There are green juices and turmeric drinks, and raw desserts such as chocolate torte. And the cinnamon rolls are as rich and sweet as anyone could wish for, whatever your dietary predilection.