Mercado de San Miguel, Madrid Photograph: Luis Hevia/http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es

Top 10 food markets in Madrid

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With Madrid’s two-week Gastro Festival opening on Saturday, now is a great time to sample the best jamón, tortilla and tapas with our guide to the city’s markets

Mercado de San Miguel

The historic wrought-iron-and-glass Mercado de San Miguel, just off Plaza Mayor, has become one of the liveliest culinary spots in the city since it reopened in 2009 after a nearly six-year restoration. Alongside stalls selling fresh produce are tapas bars offering a wide variety of treats such as gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) and banderillas (small skewers of olives, cucumbers, peppers and pickled onions). Try La Hora del Vermut for an aperitif of the house vermouth (on draft, €1.50), or grab a caña (small beer, €2) from the Beer House, a glass of rioja (from €3) from any of several wine kiosks, or taste sherries paired with tapas at the Sherry Corner. Don’t miss the mouth-watering displays of oysters, cava, chocolate, caviar, gulas (imitation baby eels made from surimi), and stuffed sea urchins. Prices are higher than Madrid’s more traditional markets, but neither the atmosphere nor the food at the market’s 33 stalls disappoints.
Plaza de San Miguel, mercadodesanmiguel.es. Open Sun-Wed 10am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 10am-2am

Platea

Unveiled last summer, the former Carlos III cinema in Plaza Colón has been converted into a spectacular food market with restaurants, bars and stalls of myriad kinds, all overseen by three Spanish chefs with a total of six Michelin stars between them. Try Mexican, Japanese, Italian and Peruvian cuisine, and listen to live music most evenings. While this isn’t a budget destination, you can enjoy a drink (beer and wine by the glass from €2.50) and tapas (mini-salmon burger with wasabi, €2.50), without breaking the bank. Cocktail bar El Palco, on the second floor, offers views of the space and there is a smoking club (with entry fee). There is also a small fresh produce section on the main level.
Calle Goya 5-7, plateamadrid.com. Open Sun-Wed noon-12.30am, Thurs-Sat noon-2.30am

Mercado de San Ildefonso

The hippest addition to Madrid’s culinary scene, this three-storey food emporium in the trendy Malasaña neighbourhood opened last summer on the site of a covered market that was demolished in 1970. This isn’t the place to buy food if you plan to cook, but it’s an excellent pitstop on popular Fuencarral street for drinks and snacks any time of day. There are 18 stalls and three bars across three floors, with an outdoor patio and a beautifully lit terrace. Try the chorizo ibérico (€1.50) at Arturo Sánchez, or a veal hamburger with foie gras, black truffle and cranberry sauce (€9) at an outpost of Gancho Y Directo. On the second floor, speciality food stalls offer goodies including mussels and octopus from Galicia, made-to-order tortillas, and even steak tartare flavoured with foie gras and truffles from Italian company Bovinus Luxury.
Calle Fuencarral 57, mercadodesanildefonso.com. Open daily 10am-1am

Mallorca Market

Opened in 2011, this outpost of the nearly century-old chain Pastelería Mallorca is a delicatessen, bakery, restaurant and gourmet market rolled into one. A stylish two-storey space in the well-heeled Chamberí district, Mallorca Market sells high-quality products including ham, cheese, wine, and a pastry section selling buñuelos (light and fluffy fried dough balls), Roscón de Reyes (a citrus-infused ring-shaped cake pastry), and torrijas (a Spanish version of French toast usually eaten in Lent . The restaurant on the lower level, with its garden patio and elegant decor, is popular at weekends for set brunches of charcuterie, chapata con tomate (ciabatta with tomato and olive oil), pastry and coffee (€9.50). Both floors offer lunch specials from €7 to €14.
Calle de Génova 12, pasteleria-mallorca.com. Open daily 9am-9pm

Mercado San Antón

More food court than traditional market, this venue is in the LGBT-friendly district of Chueca, known for its nightlife and shopping. Its 22 vendors sell everything from fresh produce and meats to cooked regional specialities. La Imperial offers Andalucian-style calamari (€9) and cocido madrileño (€10), a rich chickpea stew with vegetables and meat. Affordable regional treats include an assortment of Basque pintxos at Puturrú de Foie, such as risotto of foie gras and mushrooms (€3), or a glass of Asturian cider (€1) with a variety of cod-based tapas at La Casa del Bacalao.

The top floor restaurant has a terrace with views of the city where locals, expats and tourists kick back with “gin tonics”. While you can buy quality meats, cheese and other foodstuffs at this market to cook at home, you won’t find many local grannies shopping here.
Calle Augusto Figueroa 24, mercadosananton.com. Market open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-3pm; restaurant open Sun-Thurs 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat-10am-1.30am

Mercado de la Paz

In the posh Salamanca barrio, the art nouveau Mercado de la Paz was built in 1879 and is one of Madrid’s oldest markets. Despite its glam location, it is a neighbourhood market with friendly stall owners who’ve been there for generations. There are fish, charcuterie and cheese stalls as well as a huge selection of gourmet products, such as mojama (salt-cured tuna loin), and every variety of salted cod known to man. For eat-in fare, try Casa Dani with its daily-changing menu, including fabada asturiana (white bean stew), Spanish omelette with octopus or pork ribs, all using ingredients from the market, plus light bites such as classic pintxo de tortilla (€2.40).
Calle de Ayala 28, mercadolapaz.es.Open Mon-Fri 9am-2.30pm and 5pm-8pm, Sat 9am-2.30pm

Mercado de Maravillas

This behemoth is the largest municipal market in Europe, with 200 stalls where locals stock up on regional specialities such as suckling lamb from Burgos, jamón from Extremadura and, at Casa Serrano, an impressive variety of spices including saffron from La Mancha and pimentón (paprika) from La Vera region. While the best time to buy provisions may be earlier in the day, the market buzzes with life in the after-work hours. Cafes and stalls such as Cerveceria Raypi and El Kiosko offer traditional fare such as tripe-based callos a la madrileña, often considered Madrid’s signature dish (€4.50). You can also find products from further afield: Amazonas is a South American grocery that sells Inca Kola, a hugely popular greenish-yellow Peruvian soft drink. An old Madrileño saying goes: “Si buscas algo, vete a Maravillas. Si no lo encuentras, es que no hay.” (If you’re looking for something, go to Maravillas. If you can’t find it, it doesn’t exist.) You only have to spend an hour here to see the truth in it.
Calle Bravo Murillo 122, mercadomaravillas.eu. Open Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 5pm-8pm, Fri-Sat 9am to 3pm

Mercado de Antón Martín

In the bohemian district of Huertas, bordering the immigrant barrio of Lavapiés, Mercado de Antón Martín is one of the most traditional markets in the city, in use since 1941. Its 63 stalls sell just about everything: shoes, clothing, cutlery, organic produce, herbs, wine, and regional specialities at reasonable prices. Donde Sánchez, offering high-quality Spanish ceramics and other gifts along with a tasting counter (and recommendations from the friendly owner) is a good choice. And La Mar de Algas sells seaweed from Brittany as well as Galicia, alongside canned gourmet items such as mussels stuffed with seaweed and seaweed curry. If you’re feeling homesick, head to Best of Britain for classic products such as Heinz baked beans and PG Tips, along with language exchange events and cooking lessons. The market also offers outstanding eat-in fare: sushi at Yokaloka and Italian speciality porchetta at La Saletta.
Calle de Santa Isabel 5, mercadoantonmartin.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 10am-3pm

Mercado de San Fernando

Lavapiés is perhaps the most creative, multicultural neighbourhood in Madrid, and its Mercado de San Fernando hangs on to its working-class roots. After falling into disrepair, the market was revived through the efforts of local people and businesses a few years ago. Its 55 shops and services attract everyone from grannies to hipsters and include a barbershop (pictured) and a shoe repair kiosk alongside traditional vendors and speciality stalls such as La Buena Pinta, a craft-beer shop and La Siempre Llena, where you can have Spanish wine bottled and corked in front of you for less than €5. Try a tortillita de camarones (prawn fritter, €1.50) at El Mochuelo, or the pintxo bacalao (€2.50) at Bond 40. Regular cultural events include drumming and swing dance workshops and cooking demonstrations.
Calle Embajadores 41, mercadodesanfernando.es. Open Mon 9am-2pm and 5.30pm-9pm, Tues-Thurs 9am-9pm, Fri 9am-11pm, Sat and Sun 10am-5pm