Skip to main contentSkip to navigationSkip to navigation
El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop in Buenos Aires. Photograph: Walter Bibikow/JAI/Corbis
El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop in Buenos Aires. Photograph: Walter Bibikow/JAI/Corbis

Buenos Aires: readers' travel tips

This article is more than 9 years old

Fascinating street art, a stunning book shop and a wealth of restaurants, bars and clubs are just some of our readers’ highlights from the Argentinian capital

Winning tip: El Ateneo Gran Splendid

There are stunning bookshops in the world and then there is El Ateneo Grand Splendid. Once a theatre and cinema, it opened in 1919 and became a bookshop 81 years later. Inside El Ateneo clients are respectfully quiet, just like an audience right before the start of a show. Sit in the cafe, order a cafecito, leaf through a Buenos Aires city guide and enjoy the majestic uniqueness of this book haven!
yenny-elateneo.com
canaria

La Bomba de Tiempo music nights

‘The Time Bomb’ offers amazing live instrumental music from an eclectic range of musicians set in the open air Ciudad Cultural Konex venue. Hosted every Monday, the night generally attracts a younger crowd and an upbeat yet relaxed atmosphere is guaranteed. Tickets available on the door and the drinks are well priced. Look out for the local vendors punting their home cooked wares to the queues outside.
ciudadculturalkonex.org
Paulo1975

The Chocolate Box football stadium

Photograph: Alamy

La Bombonera (The Chocolate Box) is the football stadium where Boca Juniors play, and if you catch a match there you’ll get a real flavour of the city – even if you don’t like football. The spectacular stands rise from the houses and shops of La Boca neighbourhood, south of the city centre. Just go with the flow - expect fireworks, in every sense.
TheCapeCruiser

Free walking tours

Lezama Park, San Telmo. Photograph: Alamy

Every day two free walking tours happen in Buenos Aires: the first goes around San Telmo. The wonderful guides will teach you about area, focusing on architecture and giving you special insights into its history. And takes you past an incredible ice-cream store. The second tour covers the beautiful areas of Recoleta and Retiro. The guides are incredibly friendly and give you tips on how to look after yourself in the city and where to go after.
bafreetour.com/english-home
Hollyc123

Fine dining in secret

Plate of food from Casa Felix, Buenos Aires
Casa Felix

Buenos Aires is famous for its steak houses and pizzerias, but some of the best food in the city is found in people’s homes. There are dozens of secret “closed-door” restaurants hidden around town, often run by top chefs wanting to offer something different for true foodies in intimate settings. The best I know of is Casa Felix, in an art deco home, where the menu is sourced from the garden where you enjoy cocktails when you arrive.
colectivofelix.com/casa-felix/
Sarah Newman

Frank’s bar

Photograph: Agustin Belussi

Yes, you will need a password to get in and yes, you need to go to a phone box to tap in a four-digit code, but, yes, it’s totally worth it! Great drinks coupled with a vibrant atmosphere make this an absolute must in Buenos Aires!
franks-bar.com
Sasha Fraser

Tango at La Ventana

Photograph: Alamy

To see Argentine tango at its best, visit La Ventana in San Telmo. A visit here includes delicious food and a mesmerising professional tango show. These shows take place each night and the dancers’ passion for their art really comes through. We all felt a tad emotional and in awe! Even though I saw this show on a visit to Buenos Aires four years ago I can still remember the feeling and power portrayed by the whole performance so clearly. Highly recommended!
laventanaweb.com
becki212

Street art tour

The Buenos Aires street art walking tour will give you the insight into the various artist who’s work is found all over the city and the mural projects that are on the go. Following this exercise you will a bite to eat but beware the local empanadas are highly addictive!
buenosairesstreetart.com/tours
Phil Edgar

Fuerza Bruta theatrical event

Photograph: Alamy

The Fuerza Bruta is an interactive experience like no other. Found in the Recoleta area, the venue feels more like a local students’ union, complete with cheap beer in the bar beforehand. The show begins with pounding drums and chanting and flows full force into 90 minutes of dreamy otherworldly chaos. Expect to see sprites running along the walls, girls sliding through water inches above your head and members of the audience being plucked out of the crowd and lifted high into a inflatable dome. Leave your camera at home and expect to get wet.
fuerzabruta.com.ar
ID9223330

San Telmo neighbourhood

The Natural History Museum in San Telmo. Photograph: Alamy

One of BA’s best spots is San Telmo, the oldest neighbourhood in the city. It is a slope that starts with Bolivar street and ends in Parque Lezama just in front of the Museo Historico Nacional. Along the block of faded grandeur there are beautiful buildings from the 19th century and many restaurants and cafés. Traditional Argentinian fare at La Popular de San Telmo is ideal for a quiet lunch during the week.
PabloBlanco

Don Julio restaurant

Don Julio is an authentic Buenos Aires dining experience: it exudes a sort of 1950s atmosphere, brick walls with signed bottles of wine in every nook and cranny, brown leather tablecloths and smart waiters. Enter and your appetite is whetted by a smoky aroma of grilled tender steaks cooking and musky Malbec swilling around in the customers glasses at this parrilla in trendy Palermo.
Two-course lunchtime menu from £15, parrilladonjulio.com.ar
lion67

Most viewed

Most viewed