There's a joint of ham on the hob, it's been puttering away for an hour or more in my deepest pot, filling the kitchen with a smell that says welcome home. It's an old-fashioned smell – one of seasoned stock, cloves and bay. Timeless.
I buy a joint of meat for roasting or boiling with more than one meal in mind. Yes, there's the initial dinner with all its trimmings and splendid bonhomie, but it's the meals I make with the leftovers that interest me just as much. Last week I came home with a joint of ham for boiling. It makes a nice change from the usual Sunday roast. I had the classic ham and parsley sauce in mind, although decided to serve it with pears (which I cooked with onions and a spoon of honey) instead – but I had already earmarked the leftovers for a stuffing. The next day, shreds of the cold ham found their way into a filling with a soft and creamy cheese to turn a handful of baked shallots into a winter dinner. A frugal feast if ever there was one.
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