Hanjan, on West 26th Street, is a fine place to find Korean soul food, but when it comes to chicken wings, Hooni Kim, the chef, takes a sharp turn away from the hot-oil-blasted treatment that’s in vogue at many Korean restaurants in New York Instead, he takes wings from chickens that have been killed just hours earlier, and he gives them a gentle grilling so that nothing interferes with the essential flavor of the meat The marinade
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