Meat reducers rejoice! Christmas is perhaps the only remaining occasion when we can indulge an atavistic lust for huge hunks of flesh without an accompanying saucing of guilt – after all, you can't begrudge tradition. Three vegetarian days a week, 51 weeks a year equals, if you're lucky enough to be able to be able to afford it, one enormous turkey, a side of salmon and, to top it all off, king of the feast, a great pink ham sitting in pomp on the sideboard for all to admire.
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