Wounds Jamie Oliver inflicted three years ago when he added chorizo to rice and called it paella remain raw, while hopes of an end to the war over whether onions belong in a tortilla de patatas seem as forlorn as ever.
But as Spain endures a particularly sweltering summer, the debate has turned to the country’s best-known antidote to the heat and, specifically, the question of whether cucumber has any place in a deliciously cooling bowl of gazpacho.
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