In five words
The city of good thoughts.
What sound defines your city?
Perhaps the most memorable sound in Tartu is the song Kaunim Linn on Eestis Tartu (Tartu, the Most Beautiful City in Estonia), performed twice a day by the town hall’s clocktower bells. This is the opening act of Raimond Valgre’s Tartu March, composed in 1943 while serving in the Red Army. Despite its popularity, the song is highly controversial since it was sung by Soviet troops during the 1944 conquest of Tartu.
Best street art
Tartu has a very relaxed approach toward the street art community, and since 2006 has even hosted the annual Stencibility graffiti festival. This provocative piece was designed in 2014 by Edward Von Lõngus, a prominent local artist, and was intended to spark debate on the country’s drug policies. The artwork is displayed on a wall directly across from Estonia’s Supreme Court.
Comedy Gold
Standup comedy is relatively new to Tartu, and was largely introduced by ex-pat comedians Louis Zezeran and Stewart Johnson, who co-founded open mic event Comedy Estonia. Since then, local comedy has been thriving, with Sander Õigus rapidly ascending on the circuit. Õigus is characterised by his dark, offbeat style, which often incorporates improvised monologues on everyday life.
Best current venue
Tartu is passionate about cinema, and the Elektriteater (Electric Theatre) is the local hub for arthouse films. The cinema regularly hosts seminars with film-makers and screenwriters. Elektriteater also has a quirky side, banning popcorn on its premises, arguing that it ruins the experience for film-buffs. The city also hosts the annual Tartuff outdoor film festival, featuring the largest open-air screen in the Baltics, and showing 16 films around the subject of love.
Everyone’s tuning into ...
Like the rest of the country, Tartu is fond of singing, and most locals regularly watch Laula mu Laulu (Sing my Song). The premise is that seven beloved Estonian singers live together in the countryside and learn songs from one another’s catalogue, often re-imagining (and daresay, improving) the original tracks. Singing is central to Estonian identity, with the nation’s first song festival taking place in Tartu way back in 1869.
Who’s top of the playlist?
The local music scene is extremely vibrant and eclectic, with a growing electronic scene and various jazz bars throughout the city. Urban music has been particularly prominent, even inspiring a complimentary dance movement led by JJ-Street.
If I was to suggest one popular performer however, it would be Jarek Kasar. His music and shows have been very popular in Tartu ever since his 2003 debut album, United People. His style is extremely textured, built on various sources ranging from electronic, folk and rap to African tribal music.
Favourite local artist
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The Tartu Council funds an Artist in Residence program which provides accommodation and living expenses for artists around the world to visit Tartu for a month and create an exhibition of their work. The program starts with a traditional welcome dinner, allowing locals to meet with the artist and discuss their work in a relaxed setting.
Maria Kapajeva is a successful local artist and her project, Interiors, at the Tartu Art Museum, attempted to capture the clash of post-Soviet identity and Western media portrayals of women, and its impact on femininity in the region.
The look on the street
Thanks to its large student community, Tartu is very fashion conscious and trendy. The look on the street emphasises colour, especially in winter, and since it gets so dark, it’s mandatory to wear reflectors or suffer a 400 euro fine. These reflectors come in a wide variety of styles, often with cultural motifs and political slogans.
Best cultural Instagram account
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The best cultural Instagram account is probably Tartmus, which is hosted by the Tartu Art Museum. The account exhibits local paintings, sculptures and fashion, and is a must-follow for culture vultures.
What’s the big talking point?
Like most of Europe, political discussion in Tartu has largely been focused on the resettlement of refugees from the Middle-East and North Africa. The subject has also dominated the annual Arvamusfestival – an outdoor picnic in which Estonian political party leaders meet with the public to discuss key issues affecting the country. The event is particularly popular with Tartu’s intelligentsia.
What does Tartu do better than anyone else?
I would argue that Tartu does jazz best, with many local musicians and several prominent jazz clubs trailblazing the scene. The city also hosts the annual IDeeJazz festival which has grown increasingly popular over the years.
Moment in history
Tartu hosted the 2013 Night Song Festival, celebrating the 95th anniversary of the founding of the Republic of Estonia. The Treaty of Tartu was signed in 1920 with the Soviet Union, bringing an end to the Estonian War of Independence from the Russian Empire. A prominent cultural myth is that Estonia sang its way to independence from the Soviet Union, with the so-called “Singing Revolution,” and the 1988 Song of Estonia, attended by 300,000 activists, eventually culminating in independence in 1991.
From Me
Bradley is a freelance journalist who comments on post-Soviet affairs, primarily in Central Asia and the South Caucasus. His work has been published by RFE/RL, Eurasianet and the Diplomat, among others. Follow Bradley on Twitter: @jardine_bradley
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