It's a motley crew that set off one morning for the end of the world. Chums Toddy and Nigel, chic architects Eleo and Filipe, leader Terry, Happy the Yorkshire cross, and me. At 68, Terry is fitter and stronger than the rest of us put together: since moving to the Algarve nearly a decade ago, he has, with walking-minded friends, identified and revived an ancient pilgrim trail that wiggles from Alcoutim on the Spanish border to Cabo de São Vicente, Europe's most south-westerly point. In Neolithic, Roman, Arab and medieval perceptions, this cape was where our earth ended, the sun sinking, hissing, each day into a boiling, snake-filled ocean.
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