Peter Kaminsky is grilling a massive pork chop under a tree in Brooklyn and I am immediately struck by how quiet it is. There is no hissing sizzle, billowing smoke or raging flame. It’s all a slightly weird, mellow experience. Occasionally he inserts his digital thermometer into the slab, but other than that all we are left to do is salivate and sip some Torrontes.
Skepticism gets the better of me and I wonder if the meat is even cooking—honestly, where’s the grill drama? Then, Kaminsky pulls the chop and offers me a nibble. Glorious in its simplicity, the meat is rich and flavorful and surely one of the best bites of pork I’ve ever tasted. Cooking slow and low, Kaminsky succeeds in developing flavor with little else than charcoal. As a food critic and the former Underground Gourmet columnist for New York Magazine, it’s obvious the man knows what he’s doing. In fact, when I quiz him on how many books he’s written he wrinkles his brow and guesses, “I think 25, but I’m not sure.”
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