I put a pile of pork ribs on the table the other day hot from the oven – sweet, sticky and spice-flecked. Within minutes the entire table came to life, with everyone passing the wooden platter of fat-marbled, chewy ribs around, opening bottles of beer for their neighbour, offering sauce and abandoning cutlery in favour of fingers and thumbs. There was a splintering of crackling, a clatter of gnawed bones, the immediate hubbub of a meal shared. The plate of bare bones got precariously higher and the table turned into a sea of empty bottles.
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