The going’s good: horse racing in Ireland — theguardian.com

Killarney, the best spot to join the Ring of Kerry, is a place of tour buses. Vast hotels sit on the market town’s outer reaches and along the main street tourists trail in search of gift shops. Bars pump out what my friend, Dublin-born John, calls the tinkly tinkly music. Here Guinness is good for you, but beware leprechauns crossing. This industry, welcoming more than one million guests a year, maintains a permanent population of 13,000. Behind the scenes, those residents bring a very modern Irish attitude to having fun that is utterly authentic.

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