A lot of Coconut Lagoon’s meat and fish dishes top £10 (various vegetarian dishes and dosas start at £6.45), so it may take some juggling over a jug of tap water to keep a meal for two at under £20. But make it happen. Go veggie, takeaway, do whatever is necessary to eat here because they serve some of the finest food the cash-strapped traveller is going to experience in York. As with the best South Indian cooking, a sample dhal thadka revealed new dimensions of flavour in each and every mouthful. It started out all warming and soul-stirringly savoury – smoky, in fact, due to the addition of dried chillies – but proceeded to work its way up through garlicky, sour tamarind and, thanks to some red onion and tomato in the mix, sweet, spritzy flavours, before finishing in a quiet, strong heat. Throw in a couple of silky, buttery paratha and you have a meal fit for a Moghul prince. The restaurant itself looks rather naff but you will be too busy cooing over your food to care. • Vegetarian dishes and dosas £6.45-£9.95, other mains from £9.45. 56 Clarence Street, 01904 652828; coconutlagoonuk.com
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