Sweetcorn is best served fresh. Really fresh. There’s a farmer I know who, on mild evenings at this time of year, likes to stroll down to his cornfield with a stool, a portable gas stove, a pan full of water, some salt and a little butter. He sets himself up in the field and as the sun sets, boils and eats a perfectly fresh cob. He swears there is not a dish on this whole earth to beat it.
The day I first met my collaborator on this column, Jane Baxter, I told her this story. At the time she was running Devon’s Riverford Farm Field Kitchen – a restaurant literally in the middle of a field, which was filled with towering maize stems.
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