“The more questions you ask, the more fun we’re going to have,” said my safari guide as we set off in an open-air Land Cruiser for an evening game drive in Tanzania’s untrafficked Ruaha National Park.
That was an easy dare for a longtime travel journalist, but once we got into the bush, curiosity trumped any need to play my role. I was in Tanzania’s most wild and biggest national park that no one has ever heard of—said to be home to 15,000 elephants, 10% of the world’s lion population and quite a few leopards (and only six small camps)—with a rock star of a guide. Pietro Luraschi has been working in Tanzania 11 years, been guiding in Ruaha for 6, begun training national park rangers to lead walking safaris, and been profiled in Italian Vanity Fair.
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