I generally mix my own green-curry pastes, be they Thai or Vietnamese. I like the vibrancy that comes from the freshly blitzed lemongrass, ginger, garlic and coriander leaves. I successfully introduce the salty, sour notes using a spoonful of seriously aromatic shrimp paste and some fish sauce. My paste also gets the merest pinch of sugar if it needs it, something British cooks are often reluctant to do.
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