I prefer serving several smaller birds at the Christmas table, rather than one enormous one that presides over its minion side dishes. There’s something more attractive and less daunting about a table where the dishes are on an equal footing. Blood oranges look fantastic here, if you can get them, but use regular oranges if that’s all you can find. Serves four.
4 poussins (about 500g each) 200ml blood orange juice (about as much as you’d get from 3-4 oranges), plus 1 tsp finely grated orange zest 2 large onions, peeled and cut into 2cm-wide wedges 2½ tbsp pomegranate molasses 3 tbsp red-wine vinegar 40g muscovado sugar, plus ¼ tsp extra for the oranges 2 large cinnamon sticks, broken in half 2 red chillies, cut in half lengthways but with stems intact and seeds in 3 tbsp olive oil 4 bay leaves 20g thyme sprigs Salt and black pepper 2 blood oranges (or 1 large regular orange), topped, tailed and cut into 5mm rounds 1 tbsp ghee or clarified butter 3 tbsp coriander seeds
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