Chicken liver is one of those foods I detested throughout my childhood, knowing it only in its school dinner incarnation: cooked until grey and grainy, with flabby onions and barely a smudge of gravy. When I started writing budget recipes on my blog a few years ago, many readers got in touch to extol the virtues of chicken liver. At around 50p for a large dose of protein, I decided to brave it. This is a much-simplified version of a bolognese, but the chicken livers need little else. I’ve learned to avoid school dinner liver by either cooking it for less than a minute, or slowly casseroling it for at least 40 – anything in between seems terrifying.