Half way along pedestrianised Arbat Street, between the matryoshka shops and the stalls of birch bark paintings, is Doolin House, one of Moscow’s numerous Irish pubs. This sprawling, basement bar comes complete with wolf skins on the green walls, a Guinness-sticky floor and an authentic pub smell. Decor also encompasses soft-porn photos, fake-leather armchairs, bunting and stags’ heads. Service and food are erratic, but it’s a cosy place for a pint, with regular live music and only occasional cockroaches. It offers a minty mojito and various beers, from Kilkenny (aka Smithwicks) to Young’s Double Chocolate Stout. Round the corner, above the shops on Novy Arbat, the Shamrock bar claims to be Moscow’s oldest Irish pub, serving up pints of Harp or drams of Jamesons since 1991. • doolin-house.ru Phoebe Taplin
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