Poderi Luigi Einaudi Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy 2013 (£14.50, Vini Italiani) Italian panatone is as much a part of Christmas in the UK these days as a traditional British Christmas cake. Light and airy where the fruitcake is dense and weighty, it’s what my family has of a Christmas morning as the presents are unwrapped, usually matched with a glass of something similarly sweet and fluffy: the northern Italian sweet fizz of Moscato d’Asti. Luigi Einaudi’s vibrant version – with its aromas of muscat grape and honeysuckle, its tickle of fresh apple and lemon acidity and its low (5.5% abv) alcohol – is a particularly charming way to begin Christmas. It also works well later in the day as a gently boozy, between-courses palate-cleanser.
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