There are still a few stragglers left from Christmas looking for a good home. A handful of sticky sugar-frosted fruits, a few cubes of Turkish delight, some slabs of chocolate and the last few nuts in their shells.
What really interests me are the hazelnuts. The early, milky cobnuts of autumn are long gone: sweet milky nuggets so soft and white you can shave them and add them to a salad of crisp white and ivory leaves and pears. (Chicory, pale frisée, fresh hazelnuts and Comice pears is a beautifully serene salad on a white plate.) But by this time of year hazelnuts are best skinned and enrobed in darkest chocolate or shiny, brittle caramel: age-old marriages that work.
Read More