The first thing you should do in Pilsen is have a Pilsner Urquell. The Pilsner Urquell brewery, where golden pilsner-style beer first frothed in 1842, is a short walk east of the historic centre through parkland. The brewery is touristy – ride the country’s largest lift, wonder at the rotating auditorium – but there are gems to enjoy, such as the mangled signature of Franz Joseph I of Austria from his brewery visit in 1885. The emperor liked to sign in the local language, but began his signature in German before switching halfway to Czech. A highlight of the brewery tour (£5.40 adults, £2.90 kids and seniors) is the 9km of cavernous lime-washed cellars where the pilsner used to be stored, and where the tour concludes. There, between barrels, you’ll enjoy a cool glass of perfect pilsner. If beer is the lifeblood of Pilsen, this is the heart.
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