A grey lunchtime in Stoke Newington, north-east London, and I’m standing in the entrance to Super Kebab, an unexceptional-looking takeaway. For all of January’s belt-tightening, there is a queue. I wait for four others to order before opting for a lamb doner and tucking in. It delivers: freshly minced, juicy lamb shoulder seasoned to perfection, offset by crisp salad, all comfortingly swaddled in pitta.
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