There’s no escaping it, Delhi is a city facing major challenges, yet for all its problems, it’s an exciting place to be right now: a city in flux. When I was at college in Delhi, at the turn of the century, it was different. There were ruins and monuments for the tourists, but the things many of us craved – good foreign food, a place to drink, nightlife that wasn’t a in five-star hotel – were sorely lacking. Then an electronic music scene blossomed; the club Elevate – modelled on Fabric – opened in 2003. New restaurants, bars and coffee shops emerged with the new money. Even so, the scene was still very much an inside thing, mostly led by the rich. But in the last couple of years, a smaller, more intimate and affordable kind of venue has appeared, driven by outsiders.