Coming up the steep ascent I start to zigzag, blowing hard. The early mist is clearing and sunshine breaks around the corner of the mountain. A grouse chuckles nearby in the heather. Then, suddenly, I am at 500 metres and on the top, gazing out over a vast panorama of lakes and mountains. Far to the west is a golden smudge of sea and, even as I stand there, the sky is clearing, patches of blue joining hands over Buttermere and out beyond Scafell Pike. I take a panoramic shot with my phone and tweet it. Within a minute I get a text back from a friend: “It’s raining here.”
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