It is just shy of 2am and I’m sitting at a 24-hour sushi bar in Tsukiji market, Tokyo. I’ve just had some of the best nigiri of my life, and I’m watching the chef who sliced my fish dip a set of very long chopsticks into a tank behind the bar. It looks as though he’s trying to grab a rather large and lively mackerel. My immediate thought is that he’s going to make it into sashimi, ikizukuri-style.
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