Happy New Year to the billion-odd people celebrating the Chinese new year. It’s the year of the sheep – certainly a more auspicious culinarily proposition than the horse it succeeds, and a good excuse, if any were needed in this dark, damp month, for a bit of a feast. And hurrah for any feast that involves mandatory dumplings – in northern China, you leave them out of the New Year’s Eve feast at your peril, because their shape, resembling the ingots once used as currency, brings wealth in the months ahead.
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