This may seem like the sort of simple thing you don’t need a recipe for, more an idea than a prescriptive set of instructions. I stumbled across it in my copy of Mrs Beeton’s Everyday Cookery, and as a bit of an anchovy fiend, I was immediately sold. The original calls for “very thick white sauce and essence of anchovy”. I jotted it down in my notebook as one to explore. A few weeks later, I was having a light lunch at the Brackenbury in Shepherds Bush, run by Ossie, son of the late, great Rose Gray, and an anchovy toast savoury appeared from the kitchen. The notebook came back out (to the chagrin of anyone who accompanies me these days, I rarely have a meal without a pen in my hand). Under Mrs Beeton went Ossie Gray. Simple it may be, but if it’s good enough for Isabella and Ossie, it’s definitely good enough for me.
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