As the couturiers showcase their sartorial confections in Paris this week, the boulangers et pâtissiers are cooking up dreams of desserts: mille-feuilles, eclaires, and mont blancs as beautiful as they are delicious. While a “house” like Popeline, which specializes in cream puffs, is relatively new on the scene, others, like Meert and Stohrer, dating from 1761 and 1730, respectively, were founded even before Marie Antoinette is supposed to have uttered one of the most famous—and most likely apocryphal—quotes in history: “Let them eat cake!”
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