Extreme cod feasting – as practised in northern Norway in the darkest days of the year – reaches its finest expression with a dish called Skreimølje. This is served with the warning that you should make sure there’s a bed near the table. You will need it to collapse on when you’ve finished this protein bomb, a nose-to tail guzzle of one of the world’s most nutrition-laden fish.
These are skrei, which translates as “wanderer cod”. They are habitués of the Barents Sea, the stretch of water between northernmost Europe and the polar ice cap. Every year, the mature Arctic cod journey west along the Russian and Norwegian coast for several thousand miles, looking for somewhere to spawn. On the way, they gorge themselves with herring, while swimming hard to remain firm and lean. By March they are, in eating terms, at their very best.
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