To experience an old Cuban town off the main tourist trail, spend a few days in Remedios, which celebrates its 500th anniversary this June. It is a good base for a day trip to the northern cayos for a swim and a snorkel. Just before Christmas, everyone joins in the festival of Las Parrandas.
For a Bucanero beer or a cocktail, El Louvre on the main square is reputedly the oldest bar in Cuba. Stay in one of the casas particulares: Hostal Buen Viaje just off the square is run by a very welcoming couple. Janet Holmes
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