It’s Friday night in Belgrade and the city - discordant, concrete and rain-soaked - isn’t looking its best. Entering Opservatorijum, however, is like stepping into a peaceful bubble. The tiny white-walled art gallery and bar is resonating with ambient electronic music from a DJ behind a laptop. Solo guests listen silently inside, seated in an almost trancelike state. It feels like an unlikely start to an evening touring the city’s clubs, but the space, which opened earlier this year, typifies the avant garde nature of the city’s underground scene.
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