Whenever I’m struggling to think of something to cook, particularly when the fridge and cupboard are on the bare side, eggs are always my first port of call. They’re healthy, tasty, affordable and versatile. This week, two eggy classics: a sformata – a chic, Italian, easy-cheaty soufflé – and a set custard with hot, neon-pink shards of baked rhubarb.
Even though soufflé is not hard to make, this dish is for those evenings when time and energy are not on your side. It’s a recipe to turn to when you feel your hand creeping for the takeaway speed-dial, even though you know you want something more fulfilling. In early spring, use blanched young nettles or wild garlic instead of romanesco. Serves six.
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