Like other distinctly 1980s food and drink brands – Ice Magic, Cabana chocolate bars, Hofmeister lager – I’d assumed that the once all-conquering Sainsbury’s own-label Bulgarian cabernet sauvignon had died a quiet death at some point in the past 10 years. What had been, at the height of its 1980s popularity, the single biggest-selling wine in the UK, was now, I thought, no more than a piece of nostalgia
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