“That’s Chablis,” Vincenzo Di Meo told me as we walked through the sloping entrance to his family’s vineyard one morning late last August. He was referring to the family cat – not to the grape varietal. Chablis the cat was insouciantly rebuffing my attempts to pet her.
I thought of another notoriously capricious Chablis—the drag queen in the lauded John Berendt book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. When I told Enzo about Lady Chablis, he shrugged and said, “I guess Chablis can be difficult.” After a moment’s pause he thoughtfully added, “But worth the trouble.”
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