PARIS. Jewels, cathedral windows, cinerarias, metals – all set the pace for colouring in clothes. While many dark stuffs are used, these are illuminated not only by colour but by the glow and brightness of colour. It may only be the scarf which provides the blues, purples, reds, jades which must lighten the dress. More often it is a piece of decoration which is an integral part of the dress, as in the Mainbocher model, the gold embroidery of which has clearly a monarchical source. This is a black wool, and the ambassadorial embroidery is used for the front of the bodice, the belt, and the pockets. The cut of the skirt will be noted, with its close fit and spread above the knees. But its main characteristic is the brightness of the gold on the dark background.