We were deep in the Gudbrands valley, several hundred kilometres along St Olav’s Way in Norway, when Stig Grytting got the call. Sitting outside his 13th-century farmhouse, drinking wine and eating homemade bread, he was talking about renovations to the building when the call came. Not the voice of God, you understand, but the buzz of his mobile phone.
“Sorry,” he said apologetically, “this is a pilgrim – I have to answer it.”
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