In addition to taste, the tactile sensuality of cuisine is not lost at La Table. All too often, especially as formality increases, so does the number of utensils and dishes. Whilst Mr. Pelux and Ms. Benahmed do not shy away from elaborate presentations, they have ensured that the gustatory moment is uncomplicated. In fact, so simple that oftentimes there is no choice but to elegantly use one’s own hands, or bring a bowl of fine china to one’s lips. These connections not only heighten the sensory experience but also remind us of the participatory role that we have as diners.Unsurprisingly, Gault & Millau just named Franck Pelux as their “Promu de l’année” therefore it should be expected, not wanting to speak too quickly, that La Table will keep in this upward trajectory. That said, I can only hope that Mr. Pelux and Ms. Benahmed do not let the pressures of rankings get in the way of their personable, joyful, and exciting style. Although a bit of a divergent anecdote, I can’t help but end by recounting how, in a trip to the dining room and despite the customary kitchen/service divide, Mr. Pelux did not miss a beat in helping his service colleagues in clearing a dish from the table. For me, a chef who is as talented, as he is gracious and hospitable, is definitely one to follow.
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