It's only the middle of cherry season and already my fingertips are dyed a blushing pink from the cherry rituals: pluck them from their stalks, squeeze them, split them and tug out their crimson-stained pits. When they're good, they're irresistible – shiny, perfectly tender and intensely sweet – and should be enjoyed as nature intended, with no fanciness or frippery. Not all cherries are made equal, however, and if you buy a cheap supermarket punnet you might find the fruit rather less inspiring.
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