Consider the parsnip: fed to the pigs by the French and written out of Italian cuisine altogether. Unloved and overlooked, this root barely registers in British cooking, either, other than in the Christmas roast to keep the turkey and co company.
But its sweet, starchy flesh can mash, crisp and roast as well as any potato. And here it binds a spell around flour to make excellent sweet and savoury gnocchi, which no Italian would ever recognise, but which work a charm with a hot-and-sour gochujang sauce.
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